Ama Dablam ascent

Guide pour l'ascension de l'Ama Dablam
  • Next departure April 1, 2021
  • Group 4 to 6 participants
  • Length 31 days
  • Level Advanced
  • Lodging 5 nights in hotel in double occ. / 25 nights in camping
  • Price $13,500 *May vary based on US exchange rate

The ascent of Ama Dablam offers us to contemplate Everest and the Khumbu region at an altitude of about 6800 meters. Located not far from the highest peak in the world, this mountain is known as one of the greatest Himalayan technical alpine objective. Less crowded then his neighbors such as the Island Peak, this will give you the opportunity to apply your alpine techniques in a really aesthetic and aerial environment.

From the summit, or all the way up through the summit ridge, your eyes will admire the East of Nepal and the beautiful Honku valley. You will walk on a really aerial crest that will gives you the impression of flying above the Himalaya. This ascent is the outcome of a magnificent trek towards Everest basecamp and the Gokyo lake region.

Take up this challenge with certified mountain guides and a devoted local team!

HIGH ALTITUDE MOUNTAIN CLEANERS

In 2020, Attitude Montagne will be the official sponsor of the cleaning expedition that will take place on this mountain. A project that count more than 44 days, whose 18 days will be spend around 6000m to take down all the trash, take off the old ropes and installing new anchors. A real technical challenge that, hopefully, will change the way the industry and every alpinist climb mountains. For details visit our website.

Logistic

Lodging

The nights in Katmandu will be in 3 or 4 stars hotel depending on availability. We are going to be in lodges for the approach trek. From basecamp we are going to be sleeping in tents for the rest of the expedition.

Basecamp

We organize every aspect of the basecamp, tents, kitchen equipment, tables, chairs, communication and everything else! You only have to install your personal equipment. The only equipment you have to provide for yourself is a sleeping bag and sleeping pad (for altitude camps) because our local agency provides it for the basecamp along all you need to sleep well.

At basecamp, we have a system to recharge electronic device. We also have lights and a heater to warm up the kitchen tent!

Transport

From Katmandu, we gonna take a flight to Lukla which is the start of many Himalayan expeditions. For the trek to basecamp, we will have the service of local carrier and yaks for our equipment. We only carry a daypack to keep our strength for the ascent. You are responsible of your transport to Katmandu. Since we have a lot of equipment to carry from Quebec, we are going to separate it amongst the participants and guides before leaving.

Food

During our stay in Katmandu, we are going to eat in restaurants (not included). On the mountains, we will eat the very good meals that our cook makes for us. On the ascent, we will start to eat lyophilized food from ‘Col Camp’. You only have have to think about your own personnel favorite food : chocolate, candy, energy bar, powergel, etc.

Climbing equipment

We organize every group equipment; ropes, rock and snow protections, first aid kit, communications and other. You only have to provide personnel climbing equipment. A list will be provided.

 

 

 

 

 

Routes

Voie Arrête Sud-Ouest Ama Dablam au Népal
  • Mountain

    Ama Dablam

  • Altitude

    6856m

  • Route

    South-West ridge

  • Difficulty

    D, VI 6a 60°

  • Length

    About 10 days above basecamp

From basecamp at 4600 m, we need to ascend along grassy slopes and continue the climb that gets steeper until 5200 m. Between 5300 m and 5400, there is many possibilities to establish an advance basecamp. After, we continue the progression between big boulders which will stops around 5500 m at the bottom of slightly tilted slab that leads to camp 1 on 100 m.

From camp 1, we traverse a small pass and then descend for a short distance. We continue to some steeper scramble and slab traverse (5,5) to access the ridge that will lead us to the bottom of the Yellow tower. After climbing the Yellow tower (5,7) we meet the location of camp 2 a little higher at 6000 m.

From camp 2, we continue on the ridge until the base of a rocky outcrop that we will get around and climb some really steep mixed climbing pitches. We will then join the bottom of the grey tower and climb 2 pitches that leads to the mushroom ridge. We will follow the ridge into some steep outcrop (sections at 60-70˚) to end up on the glacier and camp 3 at about 6 300m.

From camp 3, we will climb the steep face to the right of the big serac and then continue through the summit slopes and the ice flutes (40˚-60˚) all the way to the summit.

  • Next departure April 1, 2021
  • Group 4 to 6 participants
  • Length 31 days
  • Level Advanced
  • Lodging 5 nights in hotel in double occ. / 25 nights in camping
  • Price $13,500 *May vary based on US exchange rate

Inclusions

  • Training program
  • Ascent permit
  • Flights to Lukla
  • Land transport
  • Hotel accommodation
  • Mountain meals
  • Collective climbing gear
  • Supervision by a certified climbing guide from Quebec
  • Applicable taxes

Exclusions

  • Airfare
  • Personal expenses
  • Meals in town (in Nepal and on transport)
  • Travel insurance
  • Personal climbing gear
  • Gratuities for the guide and local team
  • Extra not planned in the trip (evacuation costs, etc.)
  • Customer contribution to the Fonds d'indemnisation des clients d'agents de voyages if applicable is not included ($1 per $1000 purchase)
  • Day

    Details

  • 1-2

    Flight to Katmandu

  • 3

    Day in Katmandu, touristic visit

  • 4

    Flight to Lukla and trek to Phakding

  • 5

    Trek to Namche Bazaar

  • 6

    Acclimatization day in Namche Bazaar

  • 7

    Trek de Namche to Thyanboche monastery

  • 8

    Trek from Thyanboche to Dingboche

  • 9

    Trek to Chhukkung and ascent of Chhukkung Ri (5550m)

  • 10

    Ama Dablam basecamp arrival

  • 11-25

    Climbing period

  • 26-27

    Trek back to Lukla

  • 28

    Flight Lukla to Katmandu

  • 29

    Day in Katmandu

  • 30

    Day in Katmandu

  • 31

    Flight back

Registration