When we had the idea to develop a new trip, Huascaran, the giant of Peru imposed itself! The highest mountain of Peru, the 5th of all the Americas, and especially it is not just a hike in high-altitude, but a journey where you will have to cross several crevasses. Acclimation and speed are the key of success on this mountain.
Therefore, we will acclimate ourselves at the Vallunaraju previous to the ascension in order to attain the summit. The peak is not our main goal but we will try to reach it if we have the opportunity. Discover the Peruvian culture remains a must. Returning from the mountain, prior to departure, we will spend a few days in Huaraz to enjoy the city.
We have also decided not to push you too hard to allow your body the necessary time to adapt to the alpine environment and the altitude. This way you will be able enjoy your experience at the maximum. You will notice that the daily distances travelled are relatively short. This will leave us plenty of time for resting and taking in the views. On the summit days we will be pushing you a little harder, because after all this is an adventure trip.
To help us transport our equipment to the basecamp we will be using the local muleteer services. As an expedition you will still need to carry some of the equipment; after all it is your experience. We believe it is by actively taking part in the expedition that you will live the full mountaineering experience and feel part of the climbing community.
Preparing meals and organizing food is something that requires lots of time in the mountains. Since everything has to be ready at the right time we will hire a professional Peruvian cook and porter. The cook and porter has received formal training.
From the time you sign up for the trip we will be there to help to make sure are going to be ready for the big day.
We will spend few days in a hotel in Huaraz. We will spend 5 nights in tents for the first ascents. For Vallunaraju, we will also have 1 night in tent.
We organize every aspect of the basecamp, tents, kitchen equipment, communication and everything else! You only have to install your personal equipment. The only equipment you have to provide for yourself is a sleeping bag and sleeping pad and everything you need to sleep.
We will do the way between Lima and Huaraz by Bus. To get to the start of our trek, we will use a private van. We are going to have the services of locals muleteers to carry our gear to basecamp. we only have to carry a small daypack on the way to basecamp.
We will use taxis for every other transport around Huaraz.
You are responsible to your transport to Lima. Since we have a lot of equipment to carry from Quebec, we are going to separate it amongst the participants and guides for the trip in and out Peru.
When in town (Lima and Huaraz), we will eat in restaurants. Restaurants are not included in the trip price.
During the expedition, we will eat the very good meals that our Peruvian cook makes for us. You only have have to think about your own personnel favorite food : chocolate, candy, energy bar, powergel, etc.
We organize every group equipment; tents, first aid kit, communications and other. You only have to provide personnel equipment. A list will be provided.
Vallunaraju
5686m
Normal route
PD
5 hours from moraine camp
From Huaraz we can observe this impressive mountain with two summits. This mountain will offer you a bigger challenge than Pisco, because to reach it we have to climb summit ridge at an angle of 55 degrees.
The summit of Vallunaraju offers a 360 degrees view of the surrounding mountains. We can even see the town of Huaraz in the distant.
Huascaran Sur
6768m
Northwest slopes via the Garganta
PD+/AD
6 days from base camp
Although technically not very difficult Huascaran is quite a challenge! To access the different camps we will have to cross several crevasse, serac and avalanche zones. This means you should physically be ready to move quickly and efficiently. Camp 1 and 2 are on the glacier and we will be sleeping above an altitude of 6000 m.
The majority of the route is not very steep (30-45°) a part from a few steeper sections (70-80°) to get around crevasses.
Details
Flight from Montreal/Lima.
Departure to Huaraz.
Day in Huaraz.
Departure for the Vallunaraju.
Approach to Moraine camp moraine (4906m).
Summit to Vallunaraju (5686m) return at Huaraz.
Day in Huaraz.
Departure for base camp (4150m).
Approach of moraine camp (4900m).
Ascent of camp 1 at 5400m (glacier).
Rest at camp 1.
Ascent to camp 2 (6000m).
Access to camp 2.
Summit and return at the moraine.
Return to Huaraz.
Rest in Huaraz.
Return to Lima.
Return flight.
